KASUMI STUCK IN QUICKSAND TRIAL

Not the sort of thing you want to feel you're committed to achieving in one go, or even one day, and I don't think it'll ever feel like it's perfect.

KASUMI STUCK IN QUICKSAND TRIAL

I've read this said about Shigefusa, for eg, when being observed (though maybe with great technique emphasised instead of my trial and error). It's patience and some finesse and trial and error. Really, in my case with whatever I said above about how I normally do it, I don't think there's any real secret and I don't have any special gear, apart from more natural stones than your average bear. You can do a good job by the tang even with the handle there, I think, and I've never taken one off for that reason despite being happy to re-handle normally anyway. I'd say don't bother with de-handling, unless one wants to be extra precious and super exact in the tang area. I would really like to improve on this and would much appreciate your input.Īgreed, though I don't even go for any tape. I suppose the suction is normal - when I used nagura on Aoto, Hakka and Hideriyama it would get stuck at times - especially on the Hakka - as there is natural suction effect taking place as the water dissipates into the stone. On all 4 natural stones (Takashima not quite as much) I got a 'sticking' problem - the blade would feel like it is getting stuck (suction) to the surface of the stone what surely did not improve the final result. Apparently hard no-mud-ever stone like JNS 300 is not ideal here, nor is a direct follow-up with 3-5k stone (Gesshin SN) - that would explain why some deeper scratches would not get removed, but other than that. I am wondering what are the most obvious mistakes here?. I have apparently failed to get anywhere close to decent result. This stone just polished more the existing mess and only brought out all the forgotten scratches, the contrast between cladding and core steel actually decreased as the cladding got more polished. Here you can clearly see that I was not able to put a homogenous result, even though I tried my best with lots of nice mud. Much smoother, but still visible scratch pattern. Aoto (I have used nagura to create some mud): Relatively strong scratch pattern, consistent with what my impression was (and also the owner of the stone). This pretty much remained the same with the subsequent steps. It can be clearly seen that the cladding seems to get harder towards the tip - even at close inspection the scratch pattern on the cladding and core steel looked very similar.

Of course - this a way to large of a step, but since my Gesshin 2000 is also already packed I decided to give it a try. So now it was back to Gesshin SN - mainly because it is way faster than any of the natural stones in question, so I hoped to remove most of the scratches the JNS 300 left. Not perfect, but I did not want to spend too much time on a stone this coarse and most of the blade looked good so I moved on. Not great and not uniform (that is on me), but since there were original scratch marks still visible I decided to take the stone to JNS 300 (Gesshin 400 would have been a better choice here, but it is already pre-prepared for the pass-around).įrom now on I have always altered the angle between 90 and 45 degrees relative to edge to get and idea on the scratch pattern and its origin. It looked like this before I started:īefore I would start with natural stones I have decided to give the Gesshin synthetic natural (SN) a try - I know that it was not developed for this kind of application (and I bought it to get a nice edge with just the right amount of bite - a tasks it suits perfectly), but I was just curios what would the outcome be: After Gesshin SN: The knife I have used for the testing is Kato 80 mm kasumi petty. I have also used in the process JNS 300 and Gesshin synthetic natural stone (reasons see below) Hakka - this is my 'composite stone' - glued together from 2 small Hakka stones from Maxim (I kept them the same side up)Īoto - this was done in the same manner - also stones from Maxim Takashima - this one is from fine-tools and it is not a tomae and the effective grit is about 1k - 2k. Thanks to a kind KKF member I have currently 4 natural stones to test - my Hakka and Hideriyama and the borrowed Takashima and Aoto. Note: I have processed the photos (higher contrast) so that the finish is easier to see. OK, this was originally not meant to yield a uniform kasumi finish, rather just a quick natural stone comparison, but since the results look even worse than I expected I though I would make sense to share and ask for some advice.

Kasumi stuck in quicksand